We have arrived! We are bruised and blistered and very grateful to have had a chance to experience the Camino Primitivo. The final three days of our hike were a contrast to the previous days. We chatted with pilgrims from many countries most having started their hike in Sarria, 100km from Santiago. We stopped by a tiny trail-side stand that I remembered fondly from previous hikes on the Frances and sampled liquors made from local produce. We bought the raspberry and shared i

The miles have been long, rainy and beautiful. Thankfully, the trails are muddy, but manageable. Tiny villages that usually include treasured chapels greet us every few miles. The cafes are few and far between, but that makes them even more special when one appears and we inevitably see a familiar face and stop to have a cafe con leche and compare experiences of the trail. Yesterday was a challenge: We spotted an artist’s studio on the way in to Ferreira. Jose was charming an

We have arrived in Lugo, a beautiful small city with a historic center surrounded by a Roman wall. A UNESCO heritage site. Today we will find a laundromat, tour the cathedral, walk along the top of the wall, and find some churros and chocolate. We are in need of a day off after the recent mountainous paths that challenged us. The stages ahead promise to be gentler, thank goodness. Perry spotted the gorgeous red legged partridge above as we hiked along yesterday. We decided t

The encouragement of our fellow pilgrims has been key to our forward progress. It seems like just when we are feeling bone tired and the end of the day feels far away we inevitably have a moment of connection with another hiker that lifts our spirits. The last couple of days included tough climbs and even tougher descents, but we were rewarded with spectacular views. Blisters and sore knees and shoulders have altered our plans a bit, but I’m proud of our ability to pivot. Ye

Another sleepless night left me wobbly and with low energy. I thought I could muscle through, but my lack of concentration resulted in a small fall and then a bigger tumble. I was fine, but my confidence was compromised so Perry arranged to have a taxi meet me in Campaniello to take me the final 8 miles to my hotel. Perry had decided to tackle the infamous Hospitales Route that features a huge climb to a remote ridge line. The route meant that he would wind up in a differen

We seemed to find our individual hiking rhythms today. Of course, Perry’s was faster. It was such a treat to have gained enough confidence to hike separately. I walked in to town to see my son sitting at a tiny cafe with a beer and a plate of calamari watching for my arrival. The first half of the day we did hike together enjoying the company of Al from Arizona and Scarlett, Anthony and Joel from Alabama. I need to check out Joel’s daughter’s restaurant, Da Nada, in Birmingh

The weather was ideal for a long day of hiking as we wound through the busy streets of Oviedo through the suburbs and onto soft dirt trails. I’d had a terribly sleepless night kept awake by worries about my physical limitations and the challenges I knew that this Camino would bring. The tiny chapel above had recently gone through a renovation funded by the village residents and through donations left by passing pilgrims over the years. We stopped twice along the way to put

Perry and I have arrived in Oviedo, Spain to hike the oldest, and some say the most challenging, Camino. It will take us about 2 weeks to arrive in Santiago de Compostela 188 miles north. I’m thrilled to share the Camino experience with Perry since he’s patiently listened to my stories about my previous hikes. Also, his broken-California Spanish is appreciated here and really sets a positive tone with folks we meet. We spent the first evening sampling the local cider and ste

I’m here! I honestly can’t believe it yet. When I woke up this morning my first thought was about where I’ll hike today, then I realized...

1453 km hiked, less than 100km to go! It doesn’t seem real yet. I only have three days left of my adventure. The trails are packed with...

I wasn’t planning to write again so soon, but I want to share this experience from today on the trail to Sarria. This donativo pilgrim...

The predictable Meseta has been left behind, replaced with vineyards, hot challenging climbs, and descents into cloud shrouded forests....

As I was making my way down from Cruz de Ferro I kept in mind all of the excellent advice I’ve been given about hiking over the years....

I have just finished 9, 12, and 13 mile days. The shorter treks mean I can stop and chat with fellow pilgrims at the rest stop/donativo...

León is a huge, bustling, beautiful city. I couldn’t find any Camino markers to guide my exit and must have asked 5 or 6 people for help....

I brought about 90 little bracelets to give out to folks I met along the way. They’re super simple, with the year and some Camino...

I am taking new routes that I was not aware of last time I hiked! Camino friends suggested a trail along a canal that avoided the bleak...

The long, rocky miles pass quickly when I’m hiking with lovely folks from all over the world. This rowdy group is composed of Vivek from...

When I first hiked the Camino Frances two years ago, I was given a pendant in a tiny church. I was told by the nun who gave it to me that...

It’s been a lovely few days made even better by the folks I’ve met along the way. 1 - Camino Angel My Spanish drug supplier. He heard me...